Thursday, August 11, 2011

Westlicht / Photos

There's a photography / camera museum here called Westlicht.

After German class today, I went there to see their Polaroid exhibit (you can read all about it on the link above.)

I kept wishing my buddy J. Don Cook could have been there with me; I know he would have appreciated not only the great photos, but also the fantastic display of interesting cameras they have on display.

(By the way, J. Don is a photographer of some note, nominated several times for a Pulitzer for his photography, and his new book SHOOTING FROM THE HIP: PHOTOS & ESSAYS is a must-see / must-read.)

I'd heard Polaroid made a few cameras capable of shooting 20 X 24 inch pictures; seven cameras, actually, of which five are still working and in use for special projects. I saw a number of shots from these cameras and they're stunning----no grain.

Before the museum opened, and then afterward as I roamed around, I shot some pics of life in Vienna:

Leaving the museum, I saw a guy's hand and feet through the exit at the bottom of the stairs.

Old building, partly reflected in the glass of a new building.

A clerk in an upscale menswear store.

I stopped for a beer at Cafe Alt Wien.

Another beautiful building in the light of the setting sun.

This is a video screen in the subway tunnel, at eye level with the cab of the lead subway car,
where the driver sits. He can look at the monitor to make sure nobody's in danger before he drives off.

This was a handheld exposure at about 1/2 second.
Usually I can get better results even at this slow shutter speed but I forgot and moved the camera before the image got fully recorded----but I kind of like the smeared look of the shot. Interior, Cafe Alt Wien.

6 Course Meal

NOTE: I edited this post and the formatting got fucked up, and repeated attempts to un-fuck it were unsuccessful. Sorry.


I write about food a lot because I like to eat. As long as we're forced to do it, we might as well shove something good into ourselves, right?

I also like to cook. I'm OK at it but I realize that to do it really well is like any other skill---very few people reach the top of the game.

Wednesday night B and I joined her parents and her sister R at Freyenstein, which describes itself as a "gourmet Gasthaus." I shan't disagree. R knows a lot of uh,---food snobs, and they recommended the place. Turns out they were right.

Here's how it works: they use the finest ingredients and lots of wild plant, including flowers (yes, there are edible flowers.) They change the menu once a week or so to reflect what's in season. Well, I say "menu" but really it's "the food." You don't pick----they describe each course and you say, "OK," or not. Though I have to say: one of the courses contained something R and her father were allergic to, and they made a substitution.

You get six courses, each of which contains two items (except the final course, dessert, which had three.)

Cost per person is 37 Euro (excluding drinks and tip) which comes to about $53 at current exchange rates.

So obviously, you don't just drop in on a whim. You can't anyhow---reservations required, because even on a Wednesday night the place fills up. In fact, they called us and said: "Are you sure you're coming?" Because if we weren't, they could have easily filled our table with someone else.

We went because we were belatedly celebrating B's birthday, her father's birthday, and our wedding.

Thanks to B for going to the trouble to translate the menu from German to English for us, below. My pics aren't the best because I didn't want to use flash, and as the evening wore on the pics got darker / blurrier. Use your imagination...

As amuse-gueule (a starter not on the menu, but given to customers in good restaurants to start
you off) we got cold sour cherry soup and salad of wild herb
(left) Oven-baked tomatoes and mini squash with olive vinaigrette and basil
(right) Romaine lettuce with peas, celery and Camargue red rice


(left) Chanterelle sauce with fried and half-sliced knackwurst

(right) Leek soup with finely cubed vegetable and tarragon


(left) Crisp mullet with curry flavour, duckweed and juice from crustaceans
(right) Pan-fried salmon trout with red beets and horseradish 

(left) Poached bit of veal shoulder with porcini, brioche dumpling and mushroom plant herb
(right) Old Viennese style breaded fried chicken with potato salad and peanut-chickweed- mayonnaise
They offered two dessert plates. I chose this one:
From left: Curd cheese dumpling with stewed red currents and pistachios.
Greengage galantine, iced vanilla sauce and water melon.
White chocolate cream with bitter almond flavour and
mélange of wild berries and English mint.

B chose this one:
Goat camembert with black walnut and dandelion syrup.

I'm going to overlook the British spelling of "flavour" here because B did a lot of work translating the menu. Silly British people, adding unneccesary "u's" in their words...

The entire dinner took about 2.5 hours; they weren't trying to rush us.

I told the restaurant manager it was one of the best meals of my life, and I wasn't just blowing smoke up his wine cellar.

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

TUESDAY: German Class / Bike Ride / Irish Pub

In the morning I check email, etc. before going to German class.

I looked out the window and saw a balloon floating by, well-lit in the morning sun. There was something attached to the balloon. A note? A tiny camera? I tried to make it out but the object kept spinning and turning as the balloon rose...

It might be fun to attach a note with your contact information to a balloon, release it, and see if anybody gets back to you. How far will the balloon go? Which direction?
----
German class. In English, mostly we form a plural of a word by adding "s". There are exceptions, like man/men, woman/women. But mostly it's "s."

But in German, let me count the ways! You can add "s", or you can add "e", or you can add "en", or you can add "n", or you can add "nen", or you can slap an umlaut over one of the letters, or you can add an umlaut and "er", or you can add an umlaut and "e", or you can eliminate the last letter of the word and substitute "en." Or you can just leave the word alone! In some cases, the plural is the same as the singular!

And what are the rules for which goes where? Who. Knows?

But I'm having fun and after class, I rode part of the way home on the subway with the Iranian student, Hamed. A friendly guy, with gentle handshake and quick to smile. But I'd sized him up as a fighter---a boxer or wrestler---and on the train he told me he used to box in Iran, but (in pidgin German) "I cannot train here." We don't speak good enough German for me to find out exactly why he can't train---maybe the gyms are too expensive, or prejudiced, or his immigration status is shaky, or whatever.

But I told him: if you want, we can train together. We'll see if we can work it out somehow.
---
When I got home, it was time for a quick bite and then we dashed out for a really enjoyable, interesting bike ride.

I hate to start off this way, because my friends in Oklahoma are frying in the relentless heat wave, but it was perfect yesterday, weather-wise. Blue skies, big fluffy white clouds, shirtsleeve temperatures, a slight breeze. A day where the weather itself lifts your spirits.

B learned of a long bike trail, built on the site of an old railway. To get there you ride along the Neue Donau and eventually find yourself in the 22nd District. I've only been in this district a time or two before, and it has a definite village feeling to it---indeed, it is composed of five formerly separate communities. It was fun riding through there...

We got a little turned around, even though B spent an hour on the Web, printing out maps, directions, etc. before we left. But a kindly older lady with shockingly bright, dyed red hair stopped her bicycle when we asked for help, and she guided us (more or less---we still got a little lost, I think due to the woman's incomplete directions) toward the path. More riding through the "village" that is part of the 22nd, and then you're out in the country with farm fields, rolling hills, vineyards, and small villages dotting the landscape here and there.
 A view of the infamous "European Welfare Desert"

Every so often we came to a place along the path with old train parts---axles, wheels, etc.---laid out like sculptures, along with information signs and maps.

 I'm glad we don't waste tax dollars on things like this in Oklahoma [cough, cough]

Somebody took the time, trouble, and expense to put this wonderful biking trail together for the enjoyment of----do I dare say it?---The People. Yes, ladies and gentleman, this is your European Welfare Desert, sucking the life out of each and every one of its citizens by providing picturesque bike paths, when they could be spending the money fighting a couple of wars overseas for ten years. Silly Europeans! [cough, cough]

So we rolled along for a couple of hours, finally coming to the outskirts of a village called Obersdorf. There was the train station---and also the train, which B thought we'd miss. But where was the ticket machine?!

Rather than search for it helplessly while the train pulled away---and then have to wait another 30 minutes for the next train---we just jumped on the train with our bikes and hoped there was no conductor aboard. There wasn't. We'd have paid a hefty fine if we got caught without tickets...

Back in Vienna, the sky had darkened and the wind was blowing harder. We rode home, our legs shaking and our asses sore. But it had been a great afternoon...
---
A few hours after coming home, I took off again, this time for a beer and dinner with my new friend D, the young man whose sister is B's colleague, and whose parents hosted us for dinner last week.

It was maybe a 40 minute streetcar ride to the meeting place, and from there we walked to a nearby Irish (!) pub called Charlie P's. I'd never been there before. Turned out to be a good meeting place---and the burgers looked really delicious (I had a club sandwich instead.)

Our conversation was all over the map: politics in America, politics in Austria, how the two are similar, how they're different. The legal system in each country----America and England have similar legal systems, but Europe has its differences from the Anglo-Saxons.

We each learned a few new words----I taught D "disintegrate" and "inertia", and he taught me "zerfallen," which translates to disintegrate, and "Kabarettist," which he described as a comedian but one who emphasizes serious things like politics.

D also gave me a primer on the history of a few of Austria's main print news publications (Profil, Kronen Zeitung [which D said was "Austria's version of FOX News, in print form"], Die Presse, and Der Standard.  He touched on the rise of a right-wing Austrian politician named Heinz-Christian Strache, and we discussed the problem of Austrian politicians now beginning to adopt American methods of organizing and running campaigns---I told him the iconic image in American campaign brochures is the candidate with his jacket off, slung over his shoulder, his sleeves rolled up, looking off into the distance with his chin held high---just like the poses you'd see in Soviet propaganda posters of proud, strong factory workers and farmers.

Folks, the bullshit never ends----and now we're exporting it to Europe.

D told me of an important organization called Centropa. From their website:

"Centropa is a Vienna and Budapest-based non-profit NGO that uses advanced technologies to preserve Jewish memory in Central and Eastern Europe, the former Soviet Union, the Balkans and the Baltics, and then uses those same technologies to disseminate our findings in creative and innovative ways."

The generation of people who spent time in concentration camps is dying off---and when their grandchildren are gone, who will remain who has heard a survivor's first-hand account? "Never again" only works if people are reminded of the horrors human beings are capable of----but also of the courage of people who survive such horrors.

D and I spent a few hours together then walked back to the subway station. I'd learned a lot, and had a good time. I enjoy being a student, and I enjoy having enlightening conversations with people who know things I don't know.

I think D got the short end of the deal, but he was gracious and seemed not to mind too much.